Welcome to Dominica!
The nature island of the caribbean
Have you ever heard of the island of Dominica?
And no, I’m not talking about the Dominican Republic. Dominica, also known as the Nature Island, lies in the Eastern Caribbean, right between Martinique and Guadeloupe.
Not many people know of this place filled with rainforests, beautiful waterfalls, volcanoes, and some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. I was lucky enough to visit Dominica twice and gain a good understanding of the ins and outs of this magnificent island.
Dominica Quick Facts
Country
Language: English
Currency: East Caribbean Dollar (XCD)
Electricity: 50hz/230 Volts and Plug Type D/G
Time Zone: Atlantic Standard Time (GMT-4)
About the Island of Dominica
Dominica is, geologically at least, one of the youngest islands in the Caribbean. Even today, it is still evolving and growing due to ongoing geothermal activity. There are nine volcanoes across the island, making it the place with the highest concentration of volcanoes in the world, all of which are potentially active. You can clearly see it all over Dominica, from the Champagne Reef, where bubbles rise from the sea floor, to the sulphur hot springs and the Boiling Lake.
Volcanic eruptions in this area happen about once every 500–1000 years, with the last one 500 years ago. Scientists believe there is a 50% likelihood that another one will occur within the next 100 years. But don’t worry, there will be tell-tale signs like earthquakes indicating heightened activity. You will (probably?) not be surprised by a sudden volcanic eruption during your vacation in Dominica.
Dominica is a fusion of European and African cultures, and of the Kalinago people, the Caribbean’s last surviving pre-Columbian Carib Indians. Despite their centuries-long resistance against European colonization, the Kalinagos eventually surrendered to the relentless onslaught of diseases and colonial powers.
Along the island’s eastern coast, they’ve carved out a 3,700-acre territory called “Waitukubuli”, home to around 2,145 Kalinago residents. While they have integrated into modern life, echoes of their heritage remain in craftsmanship, the art of canoe building, and traditional architecture, offering visitors a fascinating window into their cultural legacy.
Must See Sights
Dominica has so many amazing experiences to offer, it’s hard to pick my favorites. I could’ve easily spent one or two more weeks on this island and found new waterfalls, reefs, and hikes everyday. However, after the roughly ten days in total that I’ve spent on Dominica, I believe I’ve gotten a pretty good overview of the best and most interesting adventures the island has to offer.
Batibou Bay
Starting off strong, Batibou Bay might be my favorite one in the whole world (from what I’ve seen so far at least). It was supposed to be just a quick stop on our day trip around the island. But when we saw the beach from up on the cliffs, we knew we were going to stay there for the rest of the day. The incredibly blue water was glistening in the sun and the beach was completed deserted. The backdrop of palm trees and jungle perfected the unbelievably beautiful scenery.
After a short walk down to the beach, we realized it wasn’t as deserted as we’d believed. There was actually a small bar situated next to entrance to the beach. We ended up buying some rum punch and a coconut to enjoy in the shade of the palm trees. Everything there felt like straight out of a movie and I honestly wish I could go back every single day.
How to get there:
Batibou Bay is close to the town of Hampstead in the North of Dominica. The easiest way to get there is by car. There are a few parking spaces up by the road, but make sure not to block the entrance to the way down to the beach. If your car is sturdy enough, you can even drive down the gravel path and park it down by the beach.
Boiling Lake Hike
This roughly 7 hour long hike through the jungle and over volcanoes is maybe my biggest life accomplishment so far. I’m not a natural hiker and get bored pretty easily. But I’m so proud to have completed the Boiling Lake Hike and I loved (nearly) every second of it. Every Dominican person I’d talked to the night before the hike told me it’s extremely hard and they would never do it themselves.
The Boiling Lake is the second largest of its kind in the world, just after one in New Zealand. It’s actually a flooded fumarole from a volcano! To get there, you have to hike through the jungle of Dominica, walk up and down various mountains, cross the so-called Valley of Desolation, and climb down steep ledges with only the help of ropes. It’s definitely not easy and people have gotten hurt or lost along the way. I’d recommend getting a local guide to lead you to the lake. If you take the right precautions and are physically fit enough, I’d highly recommend the Boiling Lake hike. I don’t think I will ever forget it this experience.
How to get there:
The starting point is next to Titou Gorge, a few minutes from the town of Laudat. You can drive there yourself (there is a parking lot) which takes about 20-25 minutes from Roseau. If you take a guide they might even pick you up at your accommodation.
Titou Gorge
This swimming hole, which translates to “little hole”, actually lies right next to the starting point of the Boiling Lake Hike. Cliff walls surround the icy cold water which were formed when molten lava cooled down and then split apart. You can swim through this amazing gorge which leads you to a spectacular waterfall.
Back when I visited Dominica for the first time, you could actually climb up the waterfall and reach another stronger one. To climb to the top, you could make use of a rope that was in the water, and (in my case) get help from locals that were also taking a dip in the cool pond. I didn’t visit Titou Gorge on my second trip, and talked to some other tourists that told me they couldn’t climb up the waterfalls. So maybe some things have changed, or they just don’t advertise the climb anymore.
Either way, Titou Gorge with its emerald water and towering cliffs is definitely worth a visit. Note that you need to bring a life jacket with you or borrow one for around 2$ at the entrance. Fun Fact: scenes from the second Pirates of the Caribbean were filmed in this gorge!
How to get there:
Just like the Boiling Lake Hike! Either take your car or book a tour that will bring you directly to Titou Gorge.
Emerald Pool
There is an abundance of natural pools and waterfalls in Dominica. The Emerald Pool is arguably one of the most beautiful ones. It’s a 40-foot waterfall right in the middle of Dominica’s jungle surrounded by lush ferns, vines, and mossy rocks. Once the sun hits the water, it appears in a beautiful emerald colour, giving the attraction its name.
It’s only a ten minute walk from the car park, leading you down a paved path, over a bridge, and finally to the pool. There are some steps made out of stone that lead down to the water, from whereon you can climb over a few smaller rocks and jump into the icy water of the Emerald Pool. Make sure to come early to avoid the bigger crowds! Since this is one of the most accessible natural pools on Dominica, it can become quite packed after the early morning hours passed (even more so on cruise ship days). We were there just after ten in the morning, and were able to find a short window of time when we were the only ones in the water.
How to get there:
The Emerald Pool is located 12km from Roseau, which is about a 40 minute drive. There are plenty of parking spaces at the entrance to the pathway, if you’re driving there yourself. If you want to catch a bus, you can take the public mini-vans from the city that go directly to the entrance.
Champagne Reef
The Champagne Reef got its name from the bubbles rising out of the sea floor due to geothermal activities in the area. The reef’s impressive volcanic formations and crystal clear water is full of corals and colourful fish. This makes it a popular spot for snorkelers and divers alike. You can bring your own gear or rent it at one of the many stalls along the beach.
After you make your way across the pebble beach (bring water shoes if you’re sensitive!), you just have to jump in and enjoy the floating bubbles surrounding you. When I visited the first time in 2017, there was only a boardwalk leading to the snorkel area and just one other person was around. Now, there are bars, cafes, tour operators, and plenty of sun beds peppered along the beach, with quite a few more tourists wanting to experience the bubbly water (again, especially on cruise ship days!). If you want to avoid crowds, you can also check out the nearby Bubble Beach in the town of Soufrière.
How to get there:
Champagne Beach is close to Pointe Michel in the south of Dominica. You can easily get there by car by following the road along the coast. Bear in mind that there is no designated parking lot and the parking spots along the the road are scarce.
The best time to travel to Dominica
Dominica is a tropical island with plenty of sunshine, humidity, and heat throughout the whole year. The temperature is very consistent, ranging from 28 to 30°C (82-86°F). Due to the location in the Eastern Caribbean, the island is vulnerable to tropical storms and hurricanes from June to November. This rainy season might bring regular daily showers, and in some extreme cases even floodings and mudslides.
The high season with less rain and humidity, but more tourists, lasts from December until April. I’ve visited Dominica twice, once in Summer and once in Spring. To be honest, there wasn’t a big difference concerning rain, heat, and humidity. But I also know that I was incredibly lucky during my stay in August. A few days after I’d left, a hurricane hit the island and destroyed a lot of the infrastructure. My time in April was a mix of sunshine and clouds, with the occasional burst of rain. I actually quite liked that since it was a refreshing change from the constant heat.
Health and Safety
When visiting Dominica, ensure your health is a priority. Hepatitis A and B vaccinations are recommended, and a Yellow Fever vaccination is required if you’re traveling from an infected area. With Dengue Fever on the rise, take precautions against mosquitoes. Medical facilities are limited, so carry international health insurance and bring all necessary medications. While food and drinks from hotels and restaurants are generally safe, exercise caution when eating elsewhere and avoid drinking tap water.
How to get around
Renting a Car
I’d definitely recommend renting a car if you want to explore Dominica. The roads are mostly good and shouldn’t be a problem for a sturdier car. However, they can get extremely narrow sometimes, especially in sharp turns. Furthermore, since Dominica used to be part of the British Empire, they still drive on the left side of the road. You will also become very comfortable with honking! It’s a way of letting people know you’re there around corners, to get your attention, or just to say hello. You usually get used to the roads quickly and if you’re a confident driver, you should be fine driving a car in Dominica.
We rented our car (on very short notice) at “Courtesy Car Rental” in Roseau and were extremely happy with the service. They even offered to open the shop on a holiday so we could return the car. Other companies that are recommended online are “Kingdom Car Rentals” in Salisbury, and “Yadah Car Rental” in Marigot. Note that you need to buy a driver’s permit which costs US$12 and can be purchased at the car rental company of your choice.
Taking the Bus
If you don’t think you’re up driving yourself, there is a public transportation network across the island. It mainly consists of private minibus operators. You can spot the busses by looking at the license plate that should start with an “H”. The busses come frequently, cover the whole island, and each community usually has their own bus stop. If you’re along the bus routes, you can even stick out your arm and the bus will usually stop for you, unless it’s full. The ticket prices are fixed and range from EC$1.50 to EC$10.25, depending on the route. Keep in mind that busses are not reliable at night!
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